Shifting sensorial perceptions

For Fall-Winter 2022, Julien Dossena explores an elusive intersection of technical and sensual through varying states of volume and texture.

Upon establishing the tenets of key silhouettes – simultaneously contouring and building shape around the body, he considered how to imbue them with visual and sensorial impact. Within each look, structural modification, hybrid materials and counterintuitive styling contribute a new feeling, a new frisson; from a ’90s rawness to a sophisticated collection for futuristic heroines – both real and virtual – today. All against the backdrop of an illuminated, space-age cocoon.

Playing with gradient textures and tones

Contrasts, both expected and unexpected, transmit a subtle fetishist feeling – one as linked to process and provocation. Speckled knits and slick sequin surfaces contrast matte and shine. Fitted bodices and flounced basques contrast control and release. Colour and monochrome are contrasted through gradient infusions of frosted, saccharine hues. As metal mesh and knit converge in a single fabric; draping and embroidery as crafted and rich as ever; and surface detail concentrated to striking effect, Dossena has re-transcribed couture codes with an intellectual, modern allure distinct to Paco Rabanne.